Billie Besos

So it’s been quite a long time since my last blog post, and this is in part because I’ve been pretty busy, but sadly it’s also because I got ill the other day which completely wiped me out and I just couldn’t face sitting down to write. Ok, maybe I’m being an eenie weeeeeenie bit dramatic…I am fine for anyone who is at all concerned; it wasn’t anything too serious. I’m not actually sure what happened but I’m sure everyone gets sick at some point when they are travelling for an extended period of time, and I’m proud that I lasted almost two and a half months (considering I can be such a baby), so I guess that’s something. It also makes for a pretty funny story – something involving me having to push through a bunch of people in order to jump off the back of a jeep and throw up in a bush. Ew. It wasn’t glamorous. I’m just grateful it happened after I finished this beautiful 6+ hour hike.

The beautiful sights of Cocora Valley, near Salento, Colombia

I have begun writing this post on my flight from Colombia to Peru. Having now spent two weeks in this beautiful country, I am quite sad to be leaving. I have seen so many places in the past two weeks; it’s been a bit of a whirlwind but my knowledge of and love for the country have only grown during this period. I have been jotting down notes pretty much every day, because there is in fact so much to say about this country. So much that I cannot possibly write about everything I have experienced in detail, nor do I consider myself good enough of a writer to truly capture it all. Two weeks was a great amount of time for me to explore and get a feel for Colombia, but there is also so much to this country that I am yet to uncover. I am excited and ready to move onto my next destination, but have an undeniable connection to Colombia now that I didn’t anticipate feeling before coming here.

I already touched upon this in my Carnival post, but I feel like this was only the beginning. I spent a few days in Cartagena post-Carnival; this was a lovely city for exploring, with some beautiful Colonial architecture and some funky street art.

Some of the sights of Cartagena, captured by Eliza (follow her photography insta @elizameadphotography)

The graffiti of Getsemani, Cartagena

However, it was when I travelled down to the city of Medellín, that I truly began to get a feel for the country’s history, the beautiful culture that has evolved, I feel, as a result of this, and the warmth spread by its people. I instantly loved Medellín. From the father-like taxi driver that picked us up at the bus station and gave us tips for the city, to the journey itself to our accommodation, where I admired the contrast of skyscrapers backing onto luscious green mountains; it was somehow extremely beautiful.

What really opened my eyes completely to not only Medellín, but also to Colombian culture, was the tour I took part in on my first full day in the city. The tour was of Comuna 13, or District 13, once named the second most dangerous area in the world, after the Gaza strip. This area, once (and still partly) run by gangs, has suffered years and years of violence, mainly due to drug-related issues. But now, in 2019, it is a (relatively) safe area for tourists to visit. Tourism has, in fact, been the main reason for the areas sort-of rejuvenation. I was guided around the area by a knowledgeable guide called Esteban; he had amazing English and was only 20 years old. It was only revealed to me during the tour that he had only been speaking English for three years, and this was thanks to an English school being developed up in the commune. What was truly amazing was how proud he was of where lived and what he had been through; the people of this area all take such pride in this. He had already been through things in his life that are pretty much unimaginable to you and me.

Pictured: an incredible mural painted on the walls of the district (top left), the way the buildings of the district form a heart shape (bottom left), some beautiful steps in the district (top right), and our guide Esteban chatting to us while we took shelter from the rain (bottom right)

I also took part in another free walking tour during my time in Medellín, this time around the city. This was led by an inspiring woman who gave such an insight into the culture. She explained how a lot of Colombians choose to forget the past and just be grateful for where they are now. What amazed me was how much Colombians hate the stigmas built up about their country; how most people associate it with drugs, crime, and just being generally rather dangerous. I wasn’t aware how much this stigma affected Colombians, but I now feel blessed to have seen just how much there is beneath this.

It is sad that there is this stigma, and I personally found that I couldn’t help being naturally more wary of things during my time in the country. Of course, I didn’t let this affect my stay and made sure to embrace every moment I spent there. As a whole, the people want to help you and are part of one of the most kind-hearted cultures I have ever come across. I am so grateful for the time I got to spend in Colombia, and my heart is genuinely happy that this country that once was too dangerous to visit, is now becoming safer and more accessible. It is truly a special place, and I have only scraped the surface. I will definitely return.

A few more randoms from my time in Colombia…

Views over the poorer areas of Medellín from a cable car

Pretty architecture in a shopping mall in Medellín that sold all ‘knock-off’ brands

The most beautiful little pups you ever did see. I met these babies in Parque Arví, just outside Medellín

Interesting street art down a narrow street in Bogotá, Colombia’s capital

Pretty, very Hispanic little square that formed part of the Botero Museum, Bogotá

Traditional Colombian soup, served at the popular restaurant La Puerta Falsa in Bogotá

Stunning views of Bogotá from the top of Montserrate (there were 1500 steps up to the top)